Sunday, August 21, 2005

Onsen-mania

Onsen. Meaning hot spring, they are the coveted indulgence of volcanic country. One of the positive side effects of lying on the meeting point of several continental plates, Japan is dotted liberally with many an onsen. Ranging from the mineral hotch potch (including sulfur, magnesium, gypsum, carbonates and alkalines) to a pellucid jewel, the onsen vary in size, shape, temperature, and content. It is basically nature's version of a bathtub. But the onsen in which one can immerse his/herself into is the last stop in the journey that began in the very center of the earth.
Hotsprings are mostly rain water being heated by the Earth's magma. When the core cools down, it releases gases and minerals along with water vapor onto the surface, which then condenses to hot water. In some areas, however, it releases liquid fossil as well (when the remains of life forms turn into oil or water). When the water hits the surface, it is collected and stagnated into certain areas, after which it undergoes purification, detoxification, and other forms of processing. It is then channeled into pools/baths, called onsen. Very rarely, water of such purity and perfect concentration comes up that it is left untouched, and these latter, called shizen no onsen, or, natural onsen, are considered prize items. Keep in mind, however, that all onsen only contain natural mineral rich hot water from the core; it's only how they are made available that becomes 'man-made'.
The history of the Japanese and the onsen is purely medicinal. What started out as a form of treatment for ailments such as rheumatism, neuralgia, chronic fatigue, and even arteriosclerosis (various minerals would soak through the epidermal layers and enter the system), is now not only a means for recuperation and rehabilitation, but for also socializing and relaxing. A trip to the onsen is now anything from a family vacation to a romantic getaway to a field trip.
Most onsen are segregated into ofuro or rotemburo, meaning baths, and outdoor baths, respectively. As per their names, they are either public-sized wooden bathtubs in indoor pool areas, or large, shallow pools outdoors, decorated with rocks and plants for atmosphere. Needless to say, the latter are more popular.
The best of the bunch, however, are the rotemburo of shizen no onsen. These are usually found near mountains and rivers, and picturesque hardly beigns to describe them.
My true experience of these wonders of nature was at the Takaragawa Onsen. According to an old Shinto legend, a wandering noble was on a long journey when he became ill. Hoping to find a place to rest, he made his way up to the top of nearby Mt. Hotaka so that he could get a better view of the area. When he reached the peak, he saw a stunning white hawk circling above a spot below in the distance. The noble struggled down to where he saw the hawk and found several warm pools. He rested in the soothing waters and before long, was cured of his illness. He was then able to continue his journey, but before he left he named the onsen Hakutaka no yu (Hot Water of the White Hawk, literally) and it became renowned for its healing qualities. Later on, in the Edo Period, the local mountain became famous for its copper reserves, and several copper mines popped up. The river running through the hot springs was coined the Takaragawa (Treasure River) and the village became known as Takaragawa Onsen - as it is today. Takagarawa Onsen now boasts of the largest rotemburo in all of Japan.
True to its name and reputation, it was a real treasure. The views were to kill for; what with the proximity of a raging river and being hidden deep in the valley of majestic mountains. From the many shades of green to the spray of the crystal clear river and the settings of the onsen, there was beauty, serenity and spirit in the air.
As with almost every other rotemburo, superstition surrounded this one too. People seemed to believe that soaking in the precious water helped with feritility. To enhance the atmosphere, the ppol of water was bedecked with granite statues of the Goddess of Fertility, and mothers, all nursing their babies. While fertility was the last thing on my mind, I couldn't help noticing how beautifully feminine it all was, from the lusciousness of the green to the soothing wind, and, of course, the decor. But the real cherry on top was that it was drizzling slightly while I was there, and the crisp feeling of the cool drops on my face mingling with the deliciously hot water beneath me was unbelievable. I doubt I have ever experienced such a natural high.
I stayed in the water until the rain began to come down hard ( a good 40 minutes or so later), and needless to say, the blood rushed to my head when I stood up, but it was well worth it. A gallon of iced water later, I felt like I had just been crowned Ms. Universe. The feeling was amazing.
Onsen etiquette requires that one scrub him/herself squeaky clean before entering the hot spring, because there is no chlorine added. The other notable thing is that there is no wearing a swimsuit-or anything, for that matter. I had hang ups at first about getting naked in front of strange women (thank God, it was at least segregated by sex), but after the first few minutes of extreme self-consciousness, once I was in the water, Brad Pitt could have been there and I wouldn't have cared. Oh well, not Brad Pitt maybe, but let's say Orlando Bloom. Anyway, you get my drift.
For anyone wishing to experience real Japan, the onsen isn't to be missed. There are other hot spring wealthy countries, such as Iceland, where one just strips in the middle of the street (where they tend to spring up at regular intervals) with friends and strangers alike (another whole radical experience), but the contents and associations are very different here. I plan on getting my skin shriveled like a prune by the time I get back, as a result of having sat long in every damn Onsen this heaven has to offer.

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