Part IV: Tokyo, Episode 1: Akasaka & Roppongi

Wednesday, July 27, 2005.
My very first visit to the capital city. Although I had gone there on some legal business (Embassy and other crap), I intended to take the opportunity to get a sneak peek of what the evening scene was like in Tokyo; at least in 1 area.
The trip began with a smooth ride of 55 minutes on the MAX Tanigawa Shinkansen (Bullet Train), which brought me to an even smoother halt at Ueno, in Tokyo metropolis. Before I say anything else, I'd like to add a few things about the Shinkansen. Incredibly fast-reaching speeds of upto 300km/hr, it is the best way to get around this archipelago. While the tickets can be rather pricey (usually more than twice the ordinary train fare; sometimes as costly as flight tickets), the efficiency and reliability of this train system make up for any dent it might cause in the bank account. In the 30-40 years of service, there has not been a single fatality or a report of not having been on time, not once. That, my friends, is reliability. Although it is currently the world's second fastest bullet train in service (the fastest being the MagLev of France), the ride is so incredibly smooth, it is hard to believe how fast it really is going. The same credit, I must add, goes to the MagLev as well. :)
The other wonderful thing about geting around here, in Tokyo, is the fabulous Metro System. It is on par with the New York Subway and the Paris Metro, albeit cleaner. Much cleaner. It is a cinch getting around this maze of a city once you get used to the mad rush of the crowds to grab a ticket and sprint to the platform to catch their trains. As in, anywhere else, yes. But the crowds here are unbelievable. One of the most notable things about the Tokyo metro is the rush hour in the areas of Shibuya, Harajuku and Shinjuku; particularly Shinjuku. Everyday, approximately 2 million people pass through this station alone, making it the busiest in the world. Any stories you might have heard about people being packed into the carriages like sardines in cans are, sadly, quite true. In fact, they have "platform pushers", men hired to 'push' people into the carriages and 'pack' them neatly in before the doors close. Incredible as that might sound, it is all rather true, I'm afraid!
So from Ueno, I took the Ginza line down to Akasaka, to take care of business at the American embassy. I had also planned to stay in this district, as it was known for its multifarious restaurants and proximity to Roppongi-the party corner. Once I got done, I walked along the long, winding street of Aoyama-dori, which houses restaurants of various international cuisines, some boutiques, and even the Prime Minister's residence. The crowd was trendy and as ever in big cities, in a hurry. Tokyo's current style seems to be Boho-Chic; lots of totes and huge belts accessorizing layered clothing.
I saw quite a large number of desis around here; it sorta felt like being back home-not Madras, mind you, but Mountain View!! Not too unexpectedly, I got the usual treatment-being ignored purposefully (looking away when I looked up at them)-the typical behavior of most desis in foreign countries. I know many of you will contest that, but note that I said 'most', not 'all', and I'm sure some of you know what I'm talking about. While I'm on this vein, I must comment on this infuriating behavior of the desi-and the desi alone. No other ethnic group tends to behave this way towards its own kind. No real wonder then, why the des is in such a poor state of unity.....
Anyway, back to Tokyo. After a good hour's walk, I checked into my hotel. The most striking thing about places in Japan, especially in Tokyo, is their size. Short and narrow enough to make a claustrophobe out of anyone, they are the result of serious lack of space. The bathroom, for instance, in my hotel room, was just a foot taller than me, and the width, it fit perfectly around my arms spanned out. Now I wondered whether that was because that particular hotel wasn't really five-star and had more of a local clientele in mind, but that wasn't the case. The very next day, I decided to treat myself to a night at one of the top hotels in the city, called the Hotel New Otani, one of a chain. It drained me by a good $300, but I thought it was quite good. While the amenities, location, and service were excellent, to say the least, the room, once again, was no more spacious than the one of previous night's. The bathroom was maybe just a foot wider. Forget soaking in the tub, which, funnily enough, is way deeper than it is longer. I might have had a relaxing soak if I had done it fetal style, but since I have already had the wonderful experience of twisting myself into that cumbersome position (albeit a good 26 years ago), I passed. Claustrophobia, here I come!!
Another unique (the mot juste would be wierd, actually) thing about Japan would be its high tech johns. Never has another nation borne such self-conscious people that they have technological developments made to reduce the embarrassment of others hearing the....er, noises you might make while answering Nature's call. The Japanese toilet, for instance, in big cities and airports and such, has a whole system of buttons you can push-from the type of music you want played while you are doing the deed, to what kind of 'wash' you'd like before you cleanse yourself. Not to get too crass, but the details are the hilarious parts! You can choose from 'spray' to 'bidet' to 'gush'.....so you don't have to feel too grossed out about cleaning. And as for the music, poor Mozart or Bach might turn in their graves if they were to find out their geniuses were being put to use in the venue of excretion. Sad. Equally insulting to Brahms, too, by the way.
So, after a brief washup and other mindless habituary actions, I went for a little stroll in the gardens of the hotel. Imagine my pleasant surprise when I found myself in the midst of an ancient preserve-a part of a garden, preserved for almost 500 years, since when it was first created by the incredibly talented gardeners of the Tokugawa family, the reigning nobility of Tokyo (known as Edo then) in the 17th century. Cryptomeria trees and the dormant cherry blossoms surround a spectacular carp pond, which is a real feast for the eyes, to say the least. For all the times I have ever wondered how many different shades of red and orange there might be, these fish were my answer. Never before have I beheld such deep shades of russet or sparkling goldenrod. The buzz of the city outside vaporized in minutes, and a peaceful calm set in. As I gazed at the forest green of the shrubs merging alternatively with the dappled golden sunlight, I was taken back to five centuries ago, where this very spot was witness to passion and emotion. Who knows, this very stump I rest upon might have born the weight of young lovers locked in embrace, or perhaps the gentle seat of a young mother nursing her baby......It was an ethereal moment.
I sat there for how long, I don't know, but dusk had set in and the mosquitoes had started their daily rounds. Shaking myself back to the present, I walked away from all that history and surreality. As always after such an experience, I was in a daze.
But all that was about to change. I was rudely awoken out of that pink bubble by the raucous humdrum the minute I found myself in Roppongi (I had walked upto there). Neon and party about sums up this joint, as it is home to many a sort of club-from hardcore fetish to dance until dawn. It is also the only place which has a corner segregated to the gay community. The never-ending trend of this section of town seems to be pink tufts of hair and floral shirts. Although it seemed as if I were living it up that evening, hopping from one bar to another, it didn't leave an ounce of the impression the ancient garden did. I did, however, meet some interesting people-locals and expats alike, with plans to hang out whenever I'm in town. I mention this particularly because Tokyo, like New York, can get a bit lonely on your own after the first couple times; and the offer came as a blessing.
Some 5 bars and a few gallons of beer/wine later, I triapsed back to the hotel by the metro (still only about 10.00pm, mind you; they start way early and end late over here). A shower and a change later, I fell asleep the instant I hit the pillow.
Long and satisfying day, all in all. I dreamed of romantic encounters between the Shogun and his (possibly) concubine amidst the shades of the cryptomeria; her long hair billowing in the breeze......