Part II-Matsuri

Saturday, July 16th, 2005.
The Japanese Matsuri. Matsuri, meaning festival literally, is more than just a celebration. It is a welcoming of the season it takes place in (needless to say, the theme, decorations, etc. vary according to the four seasons), a moment taken in time to enjoy simple pleasures such as running into friends one doesn't see very often,and most of all, reverting to tradition. The Japanese, agnostic as they are, will acknowledge their association with religion (matsuris usually pertain to Buddhism)on this occasion.
The Japanese attitude towards spirituality is a difficult concept to understand. The society respects, values and adores its culture, and although they abstain from religion itself, they meticulously follow certain customs-things that have origins in religion-only to keep up with tradition. A fine example of this characteristic is the Omikoshi. The Omikoshi is a miniature shrine placed on several long wooden planks, each weighing several pounds. As done in India during festivals, this contraption is carried on the shoulders by eager, hopeful individuals who have made a deal with God-Good Health for the family, prosperity, etc. in return for their performing this penance (of sorts). The individuals range from doctors to students to teachers to farmers. The Omikoshi is a miniature verison of a temple with a pagoda (and therefore a Buddhist temple). Perched on the top is a phoenix symbolizing new life, good health and cheer. Lights, Buddhist scriptures and paintings adorn the inside. The Omikoshi bearers are all dressed in traditional Omikoshi garb, complete with the Hachimaki (head band) and make-shift shoes made of cloth. They chant hypnotically as they carry the contraption around the city streets partitioned off for the festival. People watch from the sides holding paper lanterns.
Matsuri is also one of the rare occassions in which the Japanese revert to their traditional wear. The Kimono, an ubelievably amazing piece of art work, is either misunderstood or understated. Made from the pure fibrous silk that comes from silkworms, it takes months and a talent passed on in secret within Kimono -making families to come up with one complete piece. Needless to say, the cost of a single formal Kimono can be flabbergasting-anywhere from 600000yen ($6000) to 2000000yen ($20000). This masterpiece is worn only thrice in one's lifetime- Seijishiki: when a person turns twenty; Kekkon-shiki: wedding, if done Shinto style; and Soushiki: funerals, where only family and relatives of the deceased wear them. Not only is it cumbersome and difficult to both put on and wear, it is also getting more and more difficult to come by original kimonos. The Culture Preservations groups are fighting hard to support and sponsor the Kimono-making families.
Summer's version of the kimono, the Yukata, is a more affordable and comfortable alternative. Made of cotton with hand-painted designs, it is a robe held in place by the Obi (sash) and topped off with a bow in the back (for the women). It is a common sight to see many youngsters, who usually shy away from tradition during other times, to come decked out in yukata and getas (wooden sandals) to a Matsuri. The epitome of Modern Day Japan-tradition holding hands with advancements-is very prevalent during this time. A fine example is a teenager dressed in a yukata and geta, holding a Louis Vuitton purse and chatting away on a techonotronic cell-phone.
I got to see many of these yesterday at the Honjo Matsuri. Honjo is a bigger town close to mine, and one of my students was going to be carrying the Omikoshi. Streets were partitioned off for the fair, and stalls set up along the sides. I was not only invited to come and watch, but was also pampered by Japanese hospitality and kindness-2 qualities they are known for. I recieved a yukata and a pair of geta as a present, which I wore to the Matsuri! I don't know how many people I made wonder whether Halloween had come early (I seriously couldn't blend in all that much-no one could mistake me for Japanese in their wildest dreams!!), but I had a lot of fun. The Yukata, however, was ridiculously painful-the Obi is wrapped around tight several times, and it constricts breathing. Torture enough to rival the corset, it was a shock to hear that they'd actually gone easy on me 'cause it was my first time!! I didn't want to know how much tighter the real deal could be.....Not to mention how it's impossible to walk in any fashion except bob-the tight, tight Obi and the danger of the robe opening up on the lower parts make it difficult to take normal-size steps.
After seeing the Omikoshi, and saying Hi to several of my students' families we ran into, we grabbed some food off the stalls-Okonomiyaki ( a pancake sorta thing you could add your own ingredients to), Yakisoba-fried soba noodles, Karaage-chicken popcorn of sorts, and those amazing Wagashi-traditional Japanese sweets. Not everyone is a fan of these last ones, 'cause they are primarily made of Mochi-rice cakes. Sticky and glutinous, this taste is solely for the freaks. :)
Cotton Candy, draft Asahi (thank God, you can drink and smoke anywhere you like here!), photos by the Omikoshi and little goldfish we won at a fishing round completed our Matsuri celebrations. All in all, one hell of an experience.